Agrapart et FilsAvize, Côte des Blancs

Producer profile
PL Agrapart is "one of Avize's elite grower estates," creating "high-quality, terroir-expressive wines from the Côte des Blancs." Most of the estate's vineyards are in Avize, Cramant, Oiry, and Oger. Natural viticulture and vinification approach. "A portion of the best wines is aged in 600-liter casks - the older the better." NV 7 Crus comprises 7 villages, including two outside Côte des Blancs, while "the richer and more complex Terroirs is a grand cru blend" only from the villages named above. Complantée is a field-blended champagne, "composed of six different grape varieties that are harvested and pressed together." The vintage Minéral, "a racy, vibrant wine", "always comes from Le Champ Bouton in Avize and Les Bionnes in Cramant, which lie close to each other and share a virtually identical soil composition." L'Avizoise, "a broader, more expansive wine" and Vénus, "more chiseled and crystalline", are the other top cuvées of the cellar that illustrate the terroir of Avize. Member of Terres et Vins de Champagne. TyS 7/10 and very high points for the wines. "This fanatical Avize grower upholds practices not far from organics or biodynamics" while still maintaining "freedom to listen sensitively to the rhythm of the seasons and respond to the benefit of his vines." "I don't want certification because I want to be able to plough the soil when I can, and use chemicals when I need to" like in the wet 2012 vintage. "Chardonnay comprises 95% of 12 hectares of enviable estate plantings, mainly in the grand crus." The vines in La Fosse parcel in Avize are from 1959 and are tended "only by hand and horse." "Perhaps it is better - and perhaps it's just sentimental!" Pascal's "restless pursuit of a detailed expression of place is articulated in the purity and deeply crystalline mineral expression of his wines." "Sensitive, intelligent use of large, old oak for vinification and ageing of finer parcels for vintage wines and non-vintage reserves." "Full malolactic is encouraged", no filtration, low levels of sulphur dioxide and "the results are usually clean and precise." Minimum 3 years ageing for NV and 7 years for vintage cuvées. Low dosages. "The style of Agrapart: fresh, precise and elegant, with distinctive vineyard character and bitter almond structure." ToS 88 "value". "Down-to-earth, shy and sympathetic Pascal Agrapart" is "a wonderfully educational producer to visit" because of his focus on terroir. "Tireless efforts in the vineyards give him excellent results." "Very ripe grapes are the key to Agrapart's refined style, which has no signs of rusticity." These are "richly flavoured Champagnes with low dosage and all the cuvées have good bottle age."

Tasting notes

7 Crus. Bottled in May 2017, disgorged in January 2020. Attractive darkly styled bottle, reserved and understated in appearance. Uncorked with a small overflow. Lemony-yellow color with a vigorous mousse and active small bead. Very fragrant, not toasty but warmly fruity. Sweet ripe flavor bringing associations with papaya. Jammy but at the same time fresh. Very appealing and distinctive, this is an evolving and multi-faceted wine. Purchased at Gordon's in autumn 2020 for $59.  ⭐⭐

Terroirs Extra Brut. Bottled in May 2015, disgorged in February 2019. Curious scent from the mouth of the bottle, conjuring up the improbable ankimo, Japanese monkfish liver, and the fatty brown salmon flesh right next to the skin. Unexpected but intriguingly appetizing impression. The same scent is not prominent in the glass but the cork has it. The cork itself is plump and clean. Saturated yellow, foamy but with medium carbonation, not prickly. Fairly sweet or ripe, rather, with good acidity. Really nicely balanced: neither angular, nor sappy. Tasty, comfortable, a cousin to Varnier-Fanniere in terms of enjoyment, and gets even better as it warms. Minerality makes an appearance as dusty and stony sensation at the roof of the palate. With food it briefly takes the amusing guise of a buttered toast. Zalto Champagne glass serves up more fragrance compared to Jancis glass, or perhaps it's just a fresh pour. Comes across super-creamy from Zalto Burgundy glass, nearly whipped cream. Gorgeously perfumed but with a sensual twist, like fresh sweat. Not overtly toasty but full-flavored, engaging, and delicious. Great the second night. Purchased at Gordon's in autumn 2020 for $72.  ⭐⭐⭐

Complantée. Bottled in May 2013, disgorged in February 2019. Extra Brut. Same appealing ankimo nuance as in Terroirs but less prominent. Not sweet but not acidic either like extra brut can sometimes be - there is no bite, instead a kind of clarity on the palate, balanced bitterness, and tons of character. Appealing burnt milk caramelization. The impression of clarity persists the next day, like mountain spring water at snowmelt. Purchased at Gordon's in autumn 2020 for $89. ⭐⭐

Minéral 2014. Bottled in May 2015, disgorged in January 2021. Extra Brut. Clean cork instantly expands to a full pyramid. Faint sweetly acidic smell on the cork somehow registers as ticklish. Clean sugar-cookie smell from the lip of the bottle. Loudly foaming, exuberantly frothing mousse. Light yellow robe. Vigorous streams of bubbles form a persistent collar of mousse around the glass. Wonderful sweet cookie smell! Chalk, too. Completely fabulous. Perfectly dry and light-footed in a pleasing contrast and complement to the nose. Fresh, neat, and crisp like line-dried linens. Memorable and exiting. More successful and focused from Zalto Champagne glass than from Burgundy. Purchased at Spirited Gourmet in spring 2021 for $106. ⭐⭐⭐