Benoît LahayeBouzy, Montagne de Reims

Producer profile
PL One Bouzy's (and Montagne de Reims) finest growers and organically certified producer. Benoît has been at the helm of the estate since 1993 and was certified in 2007. Since 2010 he has been working the vineyards by horse, "and he's one of the few people in Champagne to actually own one - a huge, muscular Auxois named Tamise." NV Brut Nature shows "harmonious balance and a ripe, vibrant depth of fruit that Lahaye attributes to organic farming." The vintage Extra Brut is "equally compelling and even more complex", sourced from Bouzy vineyards planted in the 1960s. The "outstanding" Violaine is one of Champagne's "top non-dosé" wines. It is made without added sulfur and is a "subtle, energetic wine, with a vivid purity of flavor." Read page 119 in Peter's book about the qualities of two adjacent terroirs in Bouzy and Tauxières that are reflected in the pinot noir and chardonnay blended in this cuvée. Le Jardin de la Grosse Pierre is the "most unusual wine" of the domaine, "made from a field blend of old vines, mostly planted in 1923." Besides including all seven of the allowed grapes, it contains "a handful of grandfathered varieties no longer authorized for use in the appelation, such as gros plant and various tenturier grapes." It is a wine of "intense and complex soil expression." Also makes Peter's "favorite" Bouzy Rouge that "allies a contemporary sense of ripeness and intensity with a detailed minerality and an elegant tannic structure." Lahaye experimented with clay amphorae with the intention to "provide oxygenation without the flavors of the oak. Sells some of his fruit to Duval-Leroy and Marguet. Member of Terres et Vins de Champagne. TyS One of the "more thoughtful" of biodynamic practitioners in Champagne. The wines are "powerful, exuberant and characterful" with "creamy mouthfeel yet never heavy." 5 hectares are harvested late, pursuing ripe fruit. "Everyone in Vertus except Pierre Larmandier and Pascal Doquet finish harvest before he begins." All wines are fermented in barriques of various ages. Natural yeasts, with or without malo, depending on situation, and same with sulfur, following "intuitive practice". The book has a picture of Tamise! ToS 87 "Overt, vinous, opulently fruity wines. Highly ripe style."

Tasting notes

Blanc de Noirs. Disgorged in December 2019. Beautiful walnut shell tint. Very tasty with a toasty development on the nose and a distinctive acidic signature like an unusual berry or exotic tropical fruit: unique and appealing, teasing to reveal its flavor association but never actually yielding it. This has depth, fullness, juiciness, and a high-toned tickle of acidity. Quite dry but also succulent from Zalto White Wine glass. Curiously, Jancis glass does not improve this wine, making it even drier and releasing some funk. Purchased at Spirited Gourmet in spring 2021 for $68. ⭐