Bérèche et FilsLudes, Montagne de Reims

Producer profile
15 mentions by PL! "Brothers Raphaël and Vincent Bérèche are crafting sophisticated, terroir-expressive champagnes that are poised to rival the region's best." 9 hectares of vines with "a portion" farmed biodynamically. Most of the production is vinified in barrel with indigenous yeasts. Malo is "systematically avoided." Unlike most Champagne producers, Bérèche bottles several of its cuvées under cork for the second fermentation instead of the typical crown cap. "It's a little bit like the difference between vinifying in barrel and in tank." The entire production is disgorged by hand. "All of the estate's wines are superb." NV Brut Réserve is "lively and full-flavored." Reflet d'Antan is based on a perpetual cuvée. Vintage-dated "firm, age-worthy blend of pinot noir and chardonnay" Le Cran is made from the grapes grown in the area near the home of Bérèche estate in Ludes. Les Beaux Regards is a "racy, energetic" blanc de blancs from another terroir in the vicinity of Ludes and it "shows the richness of Montagne de Reims soils." Rive Gauche is a single-vineyard pure meunier cuvée "of uncommon refinement", made from vines planted in 1969 in Les Misy parcel in Mareuil-le-Port on the left bank of the Marne river. "With these old vines, we get this concentration of fruit without overripeness, so it retains freshness as well." "The most elegant of the estate's wines is Campania Remensis, a subtle, soil-driven rosé made from both pinot noir and chardonnay in Ormes." Bérèche also makes two still wines: "racy, elegant chardonnay Le Mont Fournois from Ludes" and "one of Champagne's finest red wines from the village of Ormes." Together with Laherte, Bérèche created Terres et Vins de Champagne in 2009, "inviting a number of like-minded grower-producers" (Agrapart, Chartogne-Taillet, Lahaye, Laval, Tarlant) "to bring attention to their vision of terroir-driven, conscientiously farmed champagnes from grower estates." See page 216 for details of other Champagne organizations and their tasting events. TyS 7/10 with a great detailed write-up. Brothers Bérèche "exemplify an enthusiastic and talented new generation", making champagnes "with a very real sense of purity and craftsmanship." Ageing on cork instead of crown seal, "increases oxygen interaction and produces a softer, creamier bead and a more open, characterful and complex wine." "The wines of Bérèche are vinous champagnes of dry complexity." ToS 87 "value". Mission statement from Bérèche website: "Travail Des Sols - Vieilles Vignes - Fermentation Lente Sous Bois - Élevage Sur Lies - Vin Non Filtré - Prise De Mousse Sous Liège - Dégorgement Manuel."

Tasting notes

Coteaux Champenois Ormes Rouge Les Montées 2015. Only 608 bottles produced from pinot noir and meunier vines planted in 1965. Bottled in April 2018. Saturated dark red with a brown tinge. Translucent, not opaque. Substantial vinous nose with the notes of wine cellar coming through. Tart, fresh, and appetizing on the palate, carrying associations with McIntosh apples and sour red cherries. The contrast between the double bass tonality of the smell and the coloratura soprano of the taste is very successful. Some sediment as is expected in this minimally processed wine. Rare and delicious still Champagne red. Purchased at Gordon's in autumn 2020 for $69. ⭐⭐

Rive Gauche 2015. Disgorged November 2018. Dosage 3g. 100% meunier. Tight and forceful cork. The wine is of the most gorgeous hue: palest brown like a faded walnut shell. Tastes dry and vinous, showing tremendous stamina with food. Astonishingly fragrant and delicious with walnut! Instantly turning sweeter, more confident, more darkly aromatic, with stimulating acidity and plushness of the oak courting the creaminess of a perfect new harvest walnut kernel. This captures the quintessence of "pairing" for me. Unforgettable. Tasted over two evenings in Zalto Burgundy, Zalto Champagne, Jancis, and Gabriel Glas Gold stemware. Purchased at Marty's in autumn 2020 for $100. ⭐⭐⭐

Campania Remensis 2015. Disgorged May 2019. Dosage 4.5g. Cork signed "Foret Espagne Fabrication Reims" is slightly uneven but clean. Slightest suggestion of a soft-rind cheese aroma from the bottle's mouth. Crackly susurrant foam, beautiful warm hue, and spicy sweetness on the nose. Think warm seaside sunset. Dry apple-skin tannin on the palate, some toastiness, red currant acidity, and red wine vinosity from Zalto Champagne. Even more toasty from Zalto Burgundy, a truly splendid glass for champagne. Black bread impression visits towards the end. Wonderful rosé. Purchased at Gordon's in spring 2021 for $84. ⭐⭐⭐

Campania Remensis 2016. Disgorged March 2020. Dosage 3.5g. Generously toasty, more seeds than bread. Slightest touch of fruit rot, a pleasing quality. Balanced acidity, not sweet but not lean: ripe. Foamy white mousse and lovely tiny bubbles. Amusing carrot note with taralli. Vocal, savory, doughy, and delicious. Spectacular! Purchased at Gordon's in spring 2021 for $83. ⭐⭐⭐

Rive Gauche 2010. Disgorged December 2014. Dosage 3g. 100% meunier. Slightly difficult snug cork has a sour hint and stays compact. Deeply aureate robe consistent with age. Good mousse retention. Ebullient in Zalto Champagne glass. Quite dry with chalky and savory aspects, think charcuterie. Elegant, serious, toothsome. There might be a reductive nuance present, not sure. Purchased at Catherine's in spring 2021 for $75. ⭐⭐