Bruno PaillardReims
Producer profile
PL Founded in 1981 by then 27-year old Bruno. Today the wines enjoy "international renown." Curiously, besides owning this "relatively small" domaine, Paillard is also a CEO/chairman of Lanson conglomerate, "one of Champagne's largest." 32 hectares, plus purchased fruit (it's a négociant). Organic or biodynamic farming. 20% is vinified in barrel and "the wines see long aging on the lees" once in bottle. NV Première Cuvée is an "elegant, graceful champagne, and one that is very much at home alongside refined cuisine" (unusual for Peter characterization, I think). "Paillard was a pioneer in listing disgorgement dates on the label, beginning this in 1983." Réserve Privée Blanc de Blancs is "creamy and supple", while Première Cuvée Rosé is "delicate and lively, focused on its finesse." The vintage Blanc de Blancs and Assemblage (a blend of pinot noir and chardonnay) also "emphasize finesse over power, demonstrating a polished refinement." Nec Plus Ultra (N.P.U.) is the top wine made in exceptional years from the finest base wines of the cellar and vinified entirely in barrel. Aged on its lees for a remarkably long time (up to 12 years), it's a "champagne of great complexity and character, demonstrating the heights of what this excellent house can achieve." TyS 7/10 interesting back story about the creation of the house. The annual production is "small enough to hand-craft, but large enough to make the hard decisions and to be selective," says Paillard. Half the pressed fruit (second pressings) is sold. For now, most ferments undergo malo but this may change with warmer harvests. The reserve solera, established in 1983 and contributing between a quarter and a half to each NV cuvée, is "impeccably managed and fresh, bringing texture and complexity to the blends, while never imposing heaviness or tertiary" flavors. Dosage is between 3 and 6g. Bruno's daughter Alice manages sales and marketing. ToS 89 value "Bruno Paillard was the first person to start up a house from scratch in the modern era by a combination of circumstance and attitude." This book also has good insight into the unusual details surrounding the creation of the estate, read it. "Rich, gastronomic" champagnes, long-aged and pinot noir dominant, with emphasis on post-disgorgement bottle ageing. The use of reserve wines in the NV blends is "lavish." "The quality is high and the style is consistent across the range." N.P.U. is "hugely concentrated and powerful", whereas the vintage Blanc de Blancs is "stylish, focused, firm" and "the epitome of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Oger Grand Cru chardonnay."
PL Founded in 1981 by then 27-year old Bruno. Today the wines enjoy "international renown." Curiously, besides owning this "relatively small" domaine, Paillard is also a CEO/chairman of Lanson conglomerate, "one of Champagne's largest." 32 hectares, plus purchased fruit (it's a négociant). Organic or biodynamic farming. 20% is vinified in barrel and "the wines see long aging on the lees" once in bottle. NV Première Cuvée is an "elegant, graceful champagne, and one that is very much at home alongside refined cuisine" (unusual for Peter characterization, I think). "Paillard was a pioneer in listing disgorgement dates on the label, beginning this in 1983." Réserve Privée Blanc de Blancs is "creamy and supple", while Première Cuvée Rosé is "delicate and lively, focused on its finesse." The vintage Blanc de Blancs and Assemblage (a blend of pinot noir and chardonnay) also "emphasize finesse over power, demonstrating a polished refinement." Nec Plus Ultra (N.P.U.) is the top wine made in exceptional years from the finest base wines of the cellar and vinified entirely in barrel. Aged on its lees for a remarkably long time (up to 12 years), it's a "champagne of great complexity and character, demonstrating the heights of what this excellent house can achieve." TyS 7/10 interesting back story about the creation of the house. The annual production is "small enough to hand-craft, but large enough to make the hard decisions and to be selective," says Paillard. Half the pressed fruit (second pressings) is sold. For now, most ferments undergo malo but this may change with warmer harvests. The reserve solera, established in 1983 and contributing between a quarter and a half to each NV cuvée, is "impeccably managed and fresh, bringing texture and complexity to the blends, while never imposing heaviness or tertiary" flavors. Dosage is between 3 and 6g. Bruno's daughter Alice manages sales and marketing. ToS 89 value "Bruno Paillard was the first person to start up a house from scratch in the modern era by a combination of circumstance and attitude." This book also has good insight into the unusual details surrounding the creation of the estate, read it. "Rich, gastronomic" champagnes, long-aged and pinot noir dominant, with emphasis on post-disgorgement bottle ageing. The use of reserve wines in the NV blends is "lavish." "The quality is high and the style is consistent across the range." N.P.U. is "hugely concentrated and powerful", whereas the vintage Blanc de Blancs is "stylish, focused, firm" and "the epitome of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Oger Grand Cru chardonnay."
Tasting notes
Réserve Privée. Oger, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, and Chouilly chardonnay. Disgorged in July 2013 (!) Pretty bottle with a slim neck and a lovely green livery. Very pointy and buoyant acidity. Dry with a creamy texture. Buy more! I note right away. Plenty of age in evidence. Unique flavor aspects. Fairly prickly and slightly green in hue. In the beginning the finish is just a touch short. Yummy and densely flavored when contrasted with fresh citrus (tangerines). Delicious the following day. Purchased at Vintages in spring 2021 for $64. ⭐⭐
All photos and tasting notes are by @gaiwanstyle
Producer profiles and wine details are from books by Peter Liem (PL), Tyson Stelzer (TyS), and Tom Stevenson (ToS)
Producer profiles and wine details are from books by Peter Liem (PL), Tyson Stelzer (TyS), and Tom Stevenson (ToS)