Eric RodezAmbonnay, Montagne de Reims

Producer profile
PL Eric Rodez is eight-generation wine grower and the mayor of Ambonnay, where has been making wine since 1984. "Highly critical of conventional viticulture and its aesthetic of industrialization" Eric considers biodynamics as the only true solution for soil health. Blender of "exceptional skill", he draws from a "large palette of base wines" available to him thanks to separate parcel vinification. Besides, he possesses "exceptionally extensive stocks of reserves wines" for a smaller estate. The domaine's 6 hectares are all in Ambonnay. Most fermentation is done in barrel. NV Cuvée des Crayères is "excellent" and demonstrates "elegance over power" credo. Blanc de Noirs is "silky and chalk-driven." Blanc de Blancs is "particularly compelling", "full-bodied and sleekly shaped", and a rare pure chardonnay from Ambonnay. Cuvée des Grands Vintages is where Rodez "reaches apogee" with his blending, combining vintage-quality wines going back a decade or more. A line of vintage wines called Empreinte de Terroir is another top offering from the estate. Les Beurys ("elegant and lithe") and Les Genettes ("larger in body and more concentrated") are two newer cuvées, both single-vineyard 100% pinot noir and vinified in oak without malo. Member of Les Mains du Terroir de Champagne. TyS 7/10 and a detailed writeup with great quotes. "Colossal resource of reserve wines spanning 20 years," "profoundly salty mineral champagnes", "few small growers who understand blending more intricately than Rodez." Barrels are used "for sensuality, not oak flavor." Rodez "tactically utilizes the generosity of Ambonnay and the complexity of barrel fermentation, then enlivens his cuvées with low dosage and selective use of malolactic fermentation, according to the parcel and the season." Grape juice is used instead of sugar for dosage. Total of 13 cuvées in the lineup that includes 6 NV blends. The wines are "largely undiscovered and offer incredible value for money." ToS 83 Eric is "very much a terroirist." "The style is serious: powerful, vinous and concentrated, with some oak impact noticeable in most cuvées."

Tasting notes

Blanc de Noirs. No disgorgement date on the back, only a lot number "L 09-20". Uncorked with a neat clean pop. The bottle sports an unusual twisted glass design, very pretty. Elaborately molded burnished copper plaque de muselet. I detect peach puree and apple sauce with a touch of cask from the mouth of the bottle. Lovely brownish autumnal hue. Quite sweet but also pertly acidic with good development and a chalky base. Distinctive, engaging, tongue-cluckingly enjoyable, as a matter of fact! Generous breadiness emerges with time. Purchased at Spirited Gourmet in spring 2021 for $66. ⭐⭐