Étienne CalsacAvize, Côte des Blancs

Producer profile
Mentioned only in PL, this is a "young grower exploring the terroirs of Grauves and Bisseuil" with 3 hectares of chardonnay in these two lesser-known villages, making wines that offer "an intriguing glimpse" into their terroirs. Member of Des Pieds et des Vins along with Barrat-Masson and Mouzon-Leroux.

Tasting notes

L'Échappée Belle NV, base 2016. Disgorged November 2019. 100% chardonnay, 3g dosage. Beautiful bottle with a textured paper label. Fine detail on the back: list of terroirs, soil descriptions, vinification profile. Fresh cork with an impressive matte black plaque de muselet. Pale lemon in hue with largish straight-shooting bubbles. Satisfying and thirst-quenching. Taste associations with raw almond and unripe crunchy pear. Enjoyed from Zalto Universal glass. Purchased at Proper Pour in summer 2020 for $45. ⭐

Rose De Craie NV, base 2017. Disgorged August 2019. 89% chardonnay and 11% pinot noir, malolactic fermentation, 2g dosage. Fresh cork with a matte pink plaque. Full copper hue. Small bubbles and good mousse retention on the second day. Hints of rye bread, raw sunflower seeds, and cranberry. Fairly young-tasting despite 20% barrel ageing. Quite dry especially when colder. Easy-drinking without particularly strong associations but very pretty and refreshing. Works well as a counterpoint to rich food. Detail on the back label is excellent. Purchased at Proper Pour in summer 2020 for $62. ⭐

Clos des Maladries 2015. 100% Avize chardonnay. 35% aged in barrel, disgorged September 2019, 3g dosage. Eye-catching, intriguing bottle with a Boschian character on the label, apparently a plague doctor(!) The website sheds no light on this peculiar choice of mascot (masked, get it?) for their wine. There are bones on the back label too. Hmm. A little googling reveals the reason. The ghost of condensation peeps out of the bottle and then retreats into it, most unusual! Nothing spooky about the wine itself, however. The scent from the mouth of the bottle is that of tempting pastry. It tastes dry and shows some oak influence. Slight green tinge. Pretty, flavorful, "breath-y" (fragrant, humid, emanative), and lactic. But expensive so only one star. Purchased at Applejack in fall 2020 for $120. ⭐