Producer profile
PL This is a relatively new estate, created in 2000, although the Gonet family has a long history of winegrowing in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. 10 hectares of their vineyards are in Bisseuil and the other 10 are in Côte des Blancs and Montagne de Reims. "Much of the harvest is vinified in barrel, which contributes to the stylish, elegant texture" and compliments their ripe fruit. NV Tradition is made with "rounder and more accessible" chardonnay from Bisseuil, blended with pinot noir and meunier to create a "fresh, inviting wine." The "delicious" Blanc de Noirs is also Bisseuil and it is "vividly fragrant and suavely textured." The "lovely, subtly nuanced" Extra Brut Rosé is "not to be missed", it is made from Le Mesnil Sur Oger chardonnay with Ambonnay's red wine added for color. Single-vineyard Champ d'Alouette "is even more expressive of Le Mesnil", "richly concentrated yet tensely focused blanc de blancs." Single-vineyard La Grande Ruelle is from Ambonnay's pinot noir and "demonstrates an ample depth of ripe fruit and an intense, complex minerality." Cuvée Théophile is a blend of the two vineyards, "detailed and impeccably polished." TyS no mention. ToS 85 the estate was formed from a portion of Philip Gonet's property. "Winemaking here differs from Philippe Gonet and uses more traditional methods, including no filtration of the wine, no malolactic fermentation and partial use of old oak barrels." Cuvée Théophile is named after their son.
Tasting notes
Tradition. Base 2016. 70% chardonnay, 25% pinot noir, 5% meunier. Disgorged in February 2020, dosage 6g. Nicely detailed
back label, easy foil. Sticky cork, instantly fans out into a pawn shape, very pretty. Thick mousse like beaten egg white. Slightly green and very sparkly, with just-Windexed mirror-like clarity. Tiny bubbles bursting at the surface like fireworks, a wonderful effect. Sweet-smelling and quickly appealing, with tangy tangerine acidity. There is something not quite settled mid-palate, not exactly sherry, but something "of the process." I think it eventually goes away. Very yummy with a vim and a backbone. Let's get more of this! Purchased at Sorriso in spring 2021 for $41 ⭐⭐
All photos and tasting notes are by
@gaiwanstyleProducer profiles and wine details are from books by Peter Liem (PL), Tyson Stelzer (TyS), and Tom Stevenson (ToS)