Henri GiraudAÿ, Grande Vallée

Producer profile
PL "Known for ample, generous champagnes," this house traces its history back to the seventeenth century. 9 hectares of their own vines plus some purchased fruit. NV Esprit de Giraud is "round and full in body". The premium NV Hommage à François Hémart is made entirely from Aÿ grapes delivering "sleeker structure and more vibrant depth." Code Noir is "ripe, mouth-filling" wine from Aÿ pinot noir. Claude Giraud has worked to revive the use of oak from the Forest of Argonne and the barrel-fermented Cuvée Fût de Chêne is "a lavishly creamy multivintage champagne, made largely from pinot noir." The vintage Cuvée Fût de Chêne is called Argönne and it is a prestige cuvée that is "structured and puissant under its plush, velvety richness." Also seek out the "rich and creamy" still wine Aÿ Blanc. TyS "this is the oldest champagne house still owned by its founding family." Claud Giraud is twelfth-generation. Vines are "tended according to organic principles and harvested at full ripeness." Full malolactic for all cuvées. "Stainless steel tanks have recently been completely rejected and all cuvées are now vinified in terracotta, sandstone eggs or 228-litre barrels from the Argonne forest south-east of Aÿ, an oak industry which Claude has been instrumental in reviving." Yet "across the range, fruit purity and definition have gravely suffered in the wake of both increasing use of oak and decreasing sulphur dioxide preservative." ToS 87 "the tiniest of Champagne houses." "The exceptional-quality Fût de Chêne is available at what can only be described as a fabulous price." "Argonne oak-fermented Pinot Noir is very much the style of Henri Giraud. Despite recent volume growth the quality has remained in top form. The extensive use of oak is bordering the limit of overshadowing the fruit and terroir. These are very vinous, concentrated wines, likely to appeal to Burgundy aficionados." "Those who like oaky Champagne should go for the Code Noir."

Tasting notes

Hommage à François Hémart NV. Interesting elongated bottle shape reminiscent of Alsace wines. Came in a fun box with perforations imitating champagne bubbles. A cheesy "united nations" of toast slogans in various tongues on the reverse of the neck foil is the only thing that detracts from the overall impression of a premium cuvée. QR code on the back leads to a helpful page explaining that this is pinot noir vinified in small oak barrels. Saturated yellow color. The nose is vinous and oaky, and the taste is balanced, with bright acidity. Curiously, the bubbles disappear after about 20 minutes in Zalto Champagne glass, yet the carbonation is still very much present, albeit without any movement. Purchased at Molly's Spirits in summer 2020 for $75. ⭐