HenriotReims

Producer profile
TyS 7/10 "meticulously assembled and long-aged cuvées, seamlessly crafted with balance and order in a classic approach, built on a core of Côte des Blancs chardonnay." 200 year-old house owned continuously by the founding family. Grapes are sourced from 33 hectares of estate vineyards and from 100 hectares with long-contract growers. Full malo and low dosage of 5-8g. Perpetual reserve "Cuve 38" of grand cru chardonnay started in 1990 is included in the NV blends. Chef de cave Laurent Fresnet recommends drinking Henriot wines from large glasses. "I have a collection in my cellar of 10 years of Brut Souverain and 10 years of Blanc de Blancs, and every year before I blend the new vintage, I taste the full vertical to remember what we did in the past, and how it has evolved." Prestige blends are Cuvée des Enchanteleurs succeeded by Hemera but seek out Millésimes for better value. Last 4 digits on the back label are month and day of disgorgement. Brut Souverain is "a bargain". ToS 93 "value", "well underpriced". "Appetising Chardonnay dominant style with a generous toasty character deriving from long ageing sur lattes as well as post-disgorgement". "The entire range from the fresh and elegantly toasty Brut Souverain onwards is recommended" and the rosés are "especially seductive, smooth, rich, and highly autolytic".

Tasting notes

Brut Souverain. Classically styled label in elegant gray with additional sticker showing house coat of arms and foundation date. The marketing blurb on the back is not necessary, "white flowers" and such. Full yellow hue of a ripe Bartlett pear. Vibrant bubbles. Pleasantly autolytic with a generous mouthfeel and a broad-shouldered, lasting finish. Good balance of acidity and sweetness. Tastes expensive. Purchased at Molly's Spirits in summer 2020 for $37 (what a bargain!) ⭐⭐⭐

Brut Souverain. More recent disgorgement from November 2018 sports an updated label the color of cocoa powder mixed with powdered sugar. The meaningless "white flowers" are thankfully gone. Very different impression compared to the earlier bottle: this is bright, fruity, and ripe but not sweet. It is balanced, generous, and festive. There is a pronounced and tremendously appealing bitterness that somehow registers as "floral" and a juicy mouthwatering acidity. Gets even better as it warms up. Purchased at Marty's in autumn 2020 for $47. ⭐⭐

Rosé. Disgorged in July 2018. Its color is much more sunset papaya than the ballet shoe pink satin of the label. Sweet upfront but transforms mid-palate and ends perfectly dry. Not especially toasty, not at all like the Brut, the autolytic character of this wine is more restrained. This is interesting because both cuvées contain perpetual reserve, and Rosé has more: 35% vs Brut's 30%. Rosé also spent 4.5 years on the lees vs Brut's 3.5. Is the difference due to the bottle age? Flavor notes of yellow peach, almond, cherry compote, as well as faint lactic dairy associations and a certain "spiciness". This is an elegant wine but not intense or especially memorable. Purchased at Molly's Spirits in summer 2020 for $60. ⭐

Blanc de Blancs. Bottle code ends on 0616 hence this is June 2016 disgorgement. Fully composite cork. Flimsy paper label succumbs to condensation. Richly toasty scent upfront, the benefit of post-disgorgement age. Very small bubbles. Sweeter and more fragrant from Zalto Universal compared to Lehmann glass, although this perception varies between different tasters. Fresh lactic acidity. Fantastic value. Purchased at Gordon's in autumn 2020 for $48.  ⭐⭐⭐

Millésime 2006. December 2016 disgorgement. New scent association: red bean bun or mooncake, delicious! Bright, singing acidity but generously balanced. Shows beautiful development without any side-effects of prolonged ageing. High-toned, flinty, faintly smoky, and with dark toasty overtones. Lactic and appley the second day. Exceptional value. Compare with other 2006s: Gosset and Lassaigne. Purchased at Gordon's in autumn 2020 for $65. ⭐⭐⭐