Hugues GodméVerzenay, Montagne de Reims

Producer profile
PL "one of Verzenay's finest growers," organically certified, also has parcels in Verzy and Villers-Marmery. "Verzenay is fresher, with more finesse, while Verzy is more about roundness and structures," says Godmé. His Verzenay parcels are chalkier with good drainage, whereas in Verzy there is more clay and stones. Total of 7 hectares of "biodynamically grown vines", farmed with applications of "various plant-based tisanes and essential oils." Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs showcases Verzenay and Verzy pinot noir "with its vivacious structure and dark, mineral-driven fruit", "focused on finesse as much as power", and "keenly expressive of the northern Montagne" de Reims. Fin Bois is "one of the top wines in the cellar", sourced from old vines in the best parcels and vinified in barrel. It's an "elegantly assertive wine, anchored by a deeply resonant chalkiness." Le Champs Saint Martin is a "particularly chalky site", "producing a remarkably subtle, refined expression of Verzenay." Single-vineyard Alouettes Saint-Bets, made from fifty-year old vines, "shows the waxy depth of fruit typical" of Villers-Marmery chardonnay but is also "chalky and austere." The meunier from Les Romaines in Villedommange goes into another single-vineyard champagne that is "ripe, sleekly shaped" and "reflects the calcareous soils." TyS and ToS no mention.

Tasting notes

Rosé. 65% pinot noir, 35% chardonnay. Disgorged in July 2018 after 5 years on the lees. Dosage 4g. Savory acidic-smelling cork. A little yeasty upfront on the nose and a little oaky and tannic on the palate. Unsweet like redcurrants picked in rainy weather. But opens up to nice breadiness with intriguing acidic signature, not quite Smarties, fancier. From Gabriel Glas the nose is notably sweeter compared to Zalto Champagne but midpalate is similar: clear, clean, and again with the impression of unripe berries, strawberries this time. There is also a pleasant beer association but not with bretts or gose, it's more like the appealing flavor depth of cask-aged sour ale. Definitely something high-toned and acidic on the nose, pleasant and fresh. Both empty glasses smell great. Sportier and oakier compared to JMSélèque Rosé. Purchased at Spirited Gourmet in spring 2021 for $57. ⭐

Réserve. 60% chardonnay, 30% pinot meunier, 10% pinot noir. 5.5 years on the lees, disgorged in September 2016, dosage 7g. Medium-yellow. Tasty, not too sweet, a little salty, with good body. Not especially patinated at first but then with a broad comfortable spread. Fleeting pineapple. Great value for the age. Purchased at Gordon's in spring 2021 for $44.  ⭐