Huré FrèresLudes, Montagne de Reims

Producer profile
PL Two brothers François and Pierre cultivate 10 hectares in Montagne de Reims, organically for the most part, with separate parcel vinification. Their champagnes "combine rich texture with racy acidity". The range starts with NV Invitation. Inattendue Blanc de Blancs is a chardonnay blend from two villages and has a "full body and generous flavors", "clearly showing a Montagne de Reims character." Instantanée is a vintage brut of equal parts of pinot noir, chardonnay, and meunier. Mémoire is a perpetual cuvée started in 1982. It is mostly pinot noir and meunier from more than thirty (!) vintages, "creating a complex, darkly toned champagne that balances savory maturity and primary fruit." 4 Éléments is at the top of the range and it is a series of vintage single-vineyard champagnes from a single grape variety. 4 Éléments Meunier is the first cuvée in this line. TyS no mention. ToS 84.

Tasting notes

Terre Natale 2008 Brut. 40% chardonnay, 40% pinot noir, 20% meunier. 9 years (!) on the lees. Disgorged in November 2018, 3g dosage. Beautifully shaped bottle. Super-reluctant cork. Exceptionally mousseaux with the tiniest bubbles filling the glass in a kind of whale bubble-net effect. A most remarkable display of carbonation with the liveliest and smallest bubbles I've seen. Neutral yellow. Balanced flavor with medium autolytics to start. Expanding to broad and complex aromatics, very impressive and satisfying. Associations with the charred maize of arepas and popcorn. Purchased at Molly's Spirits in summer 2020 for $100. ⭐⭐

Mémoire. 10% chardonnay, 45% pinot noir, 45% meunier. Disgorged in January 2015 after 1.5 years on the lees (but it also includes a perpetual cuvée started in 1982), 3g dosage. Strong oak influence is apparent right away. There's also a little bit of pickle or dill seed in the scent. At the same time a certain clarity of flavor comes through. A buttery quality follows, probably from the oak, not unappealing. Overall, the character is distinctive and somewhat forceful. Perhaps too much oak. Purchased at Hazel's Spirits in autumn 2020 for $85. ⭐