JMSélèquePierry, Côteaux Sud d'Épernay

Producer profile
PL "the newest rising star" and one of the best estates in Côteaux Sud with 8 hectares of vines in Pierry, mostly meunier and chardonnay, with only half a hectare of pinot noir in Les Gayéres. "Pierry's wines have a lot of substance. They tend to be fleshy and broad." The presence of flint in the village's soils gives Pierry's wines a characteristically smoky minerality. "The nonvintage Solessence is a fine example of the Sélèque style, rich in texture while remaining lively and buoyant. Le Quintette is a blanc de blancs blended from five chardonnay parcels in different villages, combining the mineral-driven tension of the Côte des Blancs with the body and ripeness of the villages closer to the Marne River. Estate's best chardonnay comes from Les Tartières parcel, it is "ample and broad", with a "certain sucrosité, and it's rich, almost chewy in texture, like chewing gum." Sélèque's best meunier comes from the vines planted in 50s and he blends this meunier into his top cuvée Partition. The single-vineyard meunier Les Solistes is also made with this fruit. Member of Les Mains du Terroir de Champagne. TyS no mention. ToS 84.

Tasting notes

Solessence. Base 2015. Detailed back label describes winemaking philosophy, domaine villages, blend composition, disgorgement date, and dosage. Fabulous bottle aesthetics, including the engraved domaine name on the lip of the bottle - an unusual detail. Fresh plump cork. Vividly yellow pour with a chalky nose from Jancis. Instantly delectable. Full-flavored with potent acidity and ample bitterness. Welcome oak influence. Distant associations with lobster stock, tender scallop flesh, leeks, even crossing into chowder territory - not for the similarity of flavors but for the fullness and saturation of taste. Combination of familiar and new scent notes: cellar, walnut, pumpernickel bread, flint, modeling clay, plasticine. Nuanced and vocal with food. Very tasty the second day, retaining all of its carbonation. Terrific value! Purchased at Peak Beverage in autumn 2020 for $47. ⭐⭐⭐

Partition 2013. Fantastically beautiful bottle. Same wonderfully detailed back label. Smells vinous and sweet with a whiff of carrot and lots of cellar. Tart and crisp apple-like acidity contrasts with pronounced sherry-walnut development. It's a touch rustic upfront and the cask flavor persists for a little while, although the singing acidity enlivens the overall impression. Vanilla, probably from the oak. Maybe too much oak. Slightly dry the following day. Purchased at Peak Beverage in autumn 2020 for $99. ⭐

Solessence Rosé. Base 2017. 45% chardonnay, 40% meunier, 15% pinot noir. Disgorged in October 2019, 2.5g dosage. See the back label for more details on parcels and vinification. Fat barrel-shaped cork. Light powdery tannin on the nose. Yellower or peachier in hue compared to Godmé and a touch sweeter, too. Spicier like cooked red skin apple, with a fruit soda association and a summertime house rosé vibe. Overall, it's quite dry and not especially intriguing or gripping like Laherte Rosé, for example. More interesting the following day from Zalto Burgundy glass and with Bronte pistachios. Purchased at Spirited Gourmet in spring 2021 for $38. Inexpensive! ⭐