Larmandier-BernierBlancs-Coteaux, Côte des Blancs

Producer profile
15 mentions by PL! "One of the finest estates in the Côte des Blancs". Biodynamic grower-producer farming 18 hectares and creating single-terroir champagnes like the "powerfully chalky" pure Cramant called Vieille Vigne du Levant. It and the "exceptional" Terre de Vertus, wine of "electric" minerality, need time in the bottle after disgorgement for the Maillard reaction to introduce biscuity, briochelike flavors. The third single-terroir cuvée is Les Chemins d’Avize, "thrilling", "nakedly chalky", and the trio is "as good an introduction to the terroir of the Côte des Blancs as any you’ll find in Champagne". Look for a still chardonnay Cramant Nature and the "brambly" Vertus Rouge. Rosé de Saignée is Vertus pinot noir from a clay-rich parcel "deep in color and concentrated in flavor, it's almost red wine-like in its body and intensity". NV Latitude is also from Vertus grapes and is full-bodied compared to NV Longitude that adds Cramant, Oger, and Chouilly grapes, "demonstrating the racy finesse of chalky soils". TyS 7/10 "fastidious grower", creating "symphonic harmony in every detail" with "exceedingly fine wines among the greatest grower-producers". Latitude is "from plots sharing the same latitude in southern Vertus, a generous terroir yielding fully ripe grapes" and Longitude is from grapes growing "roughly on the same longitude". Both are wild-fermented, matured in oak, and include 40% of the corresponding perpetual cuvée since 2004. Rosé de Saignée is single-vineyard Vertus, "co-planted with 85% pinot noir and 15% pinot gris". "This rosé is a paradox of the highest order, a salute to the genius of its maker and the depth of old-vine sources. How a 100% Côte des Blancs rosé from an elegant east-facing Vertus site can land midway between a graceful champagne rosé and an expressive red cherry pinot noir is truly astounding". It's a "rosé, not white champagne with color" with pinot gris adding complexity and florals. ToS 90 "value", "expressive grower". All cuvées are extra brut with 4g dosage at most.

Tasting notes

Longitude. Easy opener with a cloud and no spill. Tight cork with a pretty plaque de muselet in a blush hue. Not a lot of detail on the label. Scent associations like the red phosphorus of an unlit matchstick head, cooked milk, burnt sugar, and bitter herbs. Fairly sweet taste profile. Persistent mousse. Overall, a very interesting wine. Purchased at Proper Pour in summer 2020 for $64. ⭐⭐

Rosé de Saignée. Cork felt slippery requiring additional material to grip. An oyster glove did nicely. Beautiful quickly expanding cork. Attractive bottle with a textured oval label and embossed red champagne coupe in the domaine's coat of arms. Vivid copper hue. Ebullient bubbles. Richly toasty nose. Presents a fairly sweet profile yet this is Extra Brut. Unique character. Purchased at Molly's Spirits in summer 2020 for $67. ⭐⭐

Latitude. 100% chardonnay with 40% perpetual reserves since 2004. 4g dosage. Initial fermentation and the first year in oak. Nice detail on their website. LB's corks are among my favorites, so delightfully plump! This is vinous, maybe even oaky. Sweetly aromatic but not sweet. Sherried, distinctive. Pecans and cream. Purchased at Molly's in autumn 2020 for $45. ⭐⭐

Terre de Vertus 2008. Disgorged in December 2012. The date is not printed on the label but indicated by the last 4 digits of the bottle code. Pop! Strangest cork deformity I've seen so far. Abundant foamy mousse. In Gabriel Glas there is a standing screen of bubbles just like in Huré Frères Terre Natale 2008. Intriguing coincidence. Persisting streaming effervescence in Zalto Champagne. This is a touch disheveled straight out of the bottle. But have you seen a butterfly straight out of its chrysalis? Wrinkly wormy pathetic creature, give it a moment to pump itself up. Good acidity and balance. Subtle stony minerality. Notable post-disgorgement development, not overt in the beginning but unfurling with time and with food, soon becoming rich and nearly viscous in the perception of flavor. There may be minutest farminess in the scent but I'm not completely sure. Surprisingly inexpensive for the 2008 vintage from a top name. Purchased at Catherine's in autumn 2020 for $70. ⭐⭐

Les Chemins d'Avize 2009. Disgorged in January 2014, according to the last 4 digits of the bottle code. Energetic uncorking with a pop. Clean cork with good cellar notes. Lingering seafoamy mousse. Thrilling toasty and appley scent with "lots going on". Cookies! Really excellent nose from the start. The palate is rather transparent in contrast, giving an impression of watered-down taste like start fruit can be. So this really doesn't work cold. With time it improves beautifully. Chalk comes out and the wine gets all salty and walnutty. Carambola! Purchased at Catherine's in spring 2021 for $120. ⭐⭐