MarguetAmbonnay, Montagne de Reims

Producer profile
PL organically certified producer "placing increasing emphasis on single-vineyard and single-cru champagnes". "Few have explored Ambonnay's terroir in as much detail as Benoît Marguet" who has been bottling "a thrilling series of single-vineyard champagnes" since 2008: "linear and supple" Les Crayères "demonstrating intense chalkiness and soil-driven complexity" with 70% chardonnay and 30% pinot noir; pure chardonnay Les Bermonts "broader and more ample" from vines planted in 1952; pinot noir La Grande Ruelle from 1967 vines "retaining lively tension and poise"; and Le Parc "strongly calcareous" "with complexity and structure" from the unusual layer of tufa on top of the chalk. "There's a texture and dimension of flavor in Marguet's champagnes that are unlike any others, and a vitality about the fruit that makes them feel not just organic but truly alive". 8 hectares in Ambonnay and 2 in Bouzy, plowed by 2 horses. TyS no mention. ToS 86 the horses' names are Sultan and Tao. "Partly vinified in Burgundy and Bordeaux oak, these are Champagnes with soul". "Still developing its style and constantly innovating".

Tasting notes

Ambonnay 2010. Disgorged May 2017. Quiet opener, cork stays tight for a while then barrels out. Very pretty bottle with opalescent neck foil. Deep yellow color. Beautiful slow-rising bubbles in swirling and spiraling ribbons. Notable aspects of ageing. Interesting acidic nuance in the scent: a suggestion of Chinese black bean sauce or perhaps soy vinegar. Something savory and enticing. Associations with Byredo ink perfume. Satisfying lungfuls of fresh coolness rise from the surface of this wine. Enjoyed from Zalto Universal glass in summer 2020. Purchased from Proper Pour. ⭐⭐