Pierre PaillardBouzy, Montagne de Reims

Producer profile
PL brothers Paillard are from the 8th generation of a family of vine growers in Bouzy. They farm 11 hectares here, making wines that are "quintessentially representative of Bouzy terroir, combining a rich ripeness with chalky finesse, and they are some of the best champagnes in the village today". NV Brut is "suave in texture and richly fragrant". "The subtle and elegant vintage Brut is unusual for a Bouzy champagne in that half of it is chardonnay". Les Maillerettes is a single-vineyard pinot noir from a parcel in Bouzy planted in the 1970s that has deeper soil above the bedrock of chalk, it is "ripe in flavor without being overly rich in body, intertwining fruit and minerality in inseparable fashion". Les Mottelettes is a "rare Bouzy blanc des blancs" single-vineyard chardonnay from a Bouzy parcel planted in the 1960s where chalk is closer to the surface, it is "broad and full-bodied". Bouzy Rouge is a "wonderfully refined" still red. TyS "chardonnay comprises a strong 40% of their vineyards, unusual for Bouzy". "Grapes are picked at full maturity and treated with a minimalist approach in the winery, to fully express their terroirs". "Sulphur dioxide is used sparingly, so malolactic fermentation is never blocked". Extra brut dosages of 2-4g plus the low sulphur "make for a tense and dry style that appreciates the flesh of a warm vintage" and "the calming influence of long lees age". These traits are united in 2006 La Grande Récolte "to compelling effect". "The magnitude of this wine is amplified three-fold, in the powerful grand cru of Bouzy, the ripe harvest of 2006, and the generosity of a full 13 years of age". ToS 89 "value". "Muscular, overt, and firm Chardonnay" Les Motelettes. "Full-bodied and fleshy Pinot" Les Maillerettes. House style is "very succulent, bright, fruity, voluptuous, crisp Champagnes without any oak. A touch creamy in the middle and excellent acidity. The entire range is recommended".

Tasting notes

La Grande Récolte Millésime 2006. 50% pinot noir, 50% chardonnay. Dosage 2.7g, disgorged in July 2017. At first acidic and very dry, it opens up nicely in Zalto Burgundy glass. Full yellow with small bubbles. A hint of sunflower oil in the aroma. Detectable lees but not forwardly toasty, it shows its age in a different way. Associations with dark toffee, darkly baked bread, a restrained and somehow taut caramelization resting high at the roof of the mouth, probably due to the influence of acidity, with the accompanying impressions of crab apples and thick apple skin. Purchased at Federal Wine in spring 2020 for $68. ⭐⭐

Les Mignottes 2015. 100% pinot noir Bouzy Rouge. Saturated and deep but clear red with a fantastic aroma of mashed cranberries. Somewhat sweet, very fragrant, medium-bodied, with pleasant tannin. There are some warm-toned plushy bretts, think craft brewery rinsing its tanks, but that's the only small gripe. Purchased at Craft & Cru in spring 2021 for $53. ⭐

Les Maillerettes 2013. A familiar "ticklish" scent nuance on the cork. There's slight funk to the wine and it persists on day 2 but is subtle enough. Very pretty peachy color, this is its distinguishing and memorable feature. Fairly sweet (ripe), interesting, and enjoyable wine. Purchased at Spirited Gourmet in spring 2021 for $64. ⭐