Varnier FanniereAvize, Côte des Blancs

Producer profile
PL 4 hectares of grand cru Côte des Blancs vineyards managed by the same winemaker from Varnier family since 1989. Average vine age is between 30 and 50 years old. "Varnier's champagnes offer a ripe richness tempered by prominently chalky minerality". The best wine in the range is Cuvée Saint-Denis, "a vibrant, complex blanc de blancs from 70+ year old vines from a parcel called Clos du Grand Père". TyS no mention. ToS 87 "miniature property", "elegant and perfectly balanced style". "Smoother and more approachable than Côte des Blancs cuvées in general due to lower pressure in the bottles. Old vines and over three years' bottle ageing further contribute to the quality". Saint-Denis is a wine of "great intensity and minerality". TT 2019 Champagne catalog page 199 (see also 2018, 2017, 2016).

Tasting notes

Cuvée Saint-Denis. 100% Grand Cru chardonnay from Avize vineyard Clos du Grand Père. Disgorged April 18 2016. Good detail on the back label. 8g dosage but does not register as sweet. Contemporary label with plenty of gold leaf. Superb darkly patinated bronze plaque de muselet with letters V and F. My favorite and a very fine token for communicating with the dead (say hello for me, Eddie) but not with the living (hello again). The cork itself is fully composite, successfully safeguarding the wine after disgorgement. Toasty and appley nose. Heaps of toffee, highly autolytic, presumably aided by the bottle age, nutty but also with vibrant, singing acidity. A hint of appetizing bitterness like in strawberry tree honey. Purchased at Molly's Spirits in summer 2020 for $65. Purchased again at Gordon's in autumn 2020 for $60. June 23 2016 disgorgement. Apples, chalk, tons of character, richly developed and simply outstanding at this price point. TT 2017 Champagne catalog page 10.  ⭐⭐⭐

NV Brut. Disgorged July 16 2019, dosage 10g. 100% chardonnay from Avize, Oger, Cramant. Tasty snappy apple vibe. Fairly sweet with decent acidity, apple-juice freshness, coolness, and clarity. Snowcap of mousse in Zalto Champagne. Interesting floral notes: daffodils and lilac. Purchased at Molly's Spirits in fall 2021 for $57. ⭐